2006-05-23T15:29:00.000-07:00

Te reason we are in Cyprus is that Louises dad - Becks grandad - was born in a village called Kondea, and left for Australia in 1949. We are looking to get any information on is 10 brothers and sisters in the hope that Louise, and Beck, get access to a side of teir family they have never known.

Louise hires a car for 4 days at the airport, and after an initial false start looking at rooms in a hotel we saw on the web, we head into Larnaka and find rooms at the Boronia Pension, run by Vassos who lived in Australia for 30 years. The next morning, Beck stays in Larnanca and Louise and I drive to Famagusta to visit the locsl governement office to track down info on her father. If you are not aware, Cyprus has been cut in half for the last 30 years since Turkey took possession of the top half in 1973 and they and Greece have been fighting and arguing over whose it is since then. The Cypriots know the answer. Its theirs, not Turkeys or Greeces. We learn howevere what its like to get around in a split country when we get to Famagausta and there is barbed wire fences and border guards down the middle of the street and we arent allowed to go through fro the Greek to the Turkish side. We are told we have to drive half way back to Larnaca and go through one of 2 checkpoints into the Turkish side.

We drive back, get to the checkpoint, and have to buy car insurance for the day for the hire car before they let us through as the insurance from the Greek side doesnt cover the car on the Turkish side. They try to charge us 15 Cyprus pounds (about $50oz) which I realise is trying to rip us off - the insurance stand just before the border is run by 2 Greek girls about 18 who dont seem to know much except that they can charge whatever they like. I go to the border guards and ask how much insurance should be. They say 10-12 pounds. I go back and say this to the girls who call their boss and get it reduced to 12. On the other side, we drive into Famagusta, find the regional office only to find it closes in summer at 12.30pm (wouldnt you if you could) and we've missed it after all that, so we head back to Larnaca. Beck and Louise go shopping, Beck cooks, and Bassos, the manager, tells us that he called the village where Louises dad came from, as he came from one near there, and spoke to the mayor, who knows someone who knew Louises dad. Very exciting. Vassos is going to get him and Louise together while we are here.

On the 5th, Beck and Louise are going to drive to different parts of Cyprus, visiting government offices and her dads/grandads village to get more info on im. I decide to stay in Larnaca and spend most of the day reading and resting. We go out for dinner when they get back and fill me in on their days adventures. They didnt get much info but did get to see the village where he grew up. I am feeling a flatness - not getting excited and not getting down from anything, just not feeleing anything. Spend that day and most of ny time in Cyprus in the room watching tv and reading while Beck and Louise go out. George, Louises das friend from the village comes by on our second last morning and they chat as best they can about his memories of her father. It is quite emotional.

On the last day we drive to Limassol and Agia Napa, both of which, like Larnaca, are set up for British and European tourists. Cyprus feels like one Surfers Paradise after another in this area. The beaches are lined with banana chairs and white bodies as far as the eye can see. Even Konnos, a small bay like Nelsons Bay in Sydney, has jetski and pedal boat ire for the tourists. It is very lovely though. On our last night we have a 6 course dinner of traditional Cyprus meals ina meze form - not a whole serving but a little taste of each thing, althought there is more than enough meat to keep this carnivore very happy. Our alarm goes off at 5 the next morning. We pack the car, drive to the airport and fly to Athens where we sit at the airport for a few hours until we say goodbye to Louise. She comments on my heaviness. I cant explain it myself. After Louise leaves, Beck and I have another 6 hours at the airport until our flight to Madrid, and she also comments on my heaviness, making it quite clear she doesnt enjoy being around it. Well, neither do I.

Cyprus - May 3-8